By Eileen Ogintz
LYON, FRANCE — It’s such a treat when a hotel more than meets your expectations. That was the case with our stay at the Sofitel Lyon Bellecour, in France just after we had gotten off an AMAWaterways river cruise on the Rhine River, a short train ride away.
The 160-room luxury hotel is in the heart of Lyon, the gastronomy center of France, making it easy whether you want to explore the hidden passages called Traboules in Old Lyon, head out for a day in the wine country of Beaujolais as we did, take a tour of the indoor food market Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse, or visit some of Lyon’s museums. (There are 30 to choose from.)
Nearby, in fact, are the science and anthropology center Musee des Confluences (the most visited museum in the city, the Museum of Fine Arts, the interactive Institut Lumiere about the history of filmmaking and the Museum of Contemporary Art.
(If you plan to take in most of the major sites, consider the Lyon City Card which provides access to museums, attractions, guided tours, river cruises and public transport.)
Lyon is at the confluence of the Rhone and Saone rivers (our room at the Sofitel overlooked the Rhone) and can be explored by foot, bike or on the water. There are more than 4400 acres of green space, including The Tete d’Or Park, France’s largest urban park.
Take a walk and admire Lyon’s 100+ outdoor murals that pay tribute to famous locals and the city’s history. Much of the city is accessible within a 15-minute walk. We also found it easy to take a high-speed TGV train from Lyon directly to Charles de Gaulle International Airport in Paris.
From the Sofitel bar, Le Melhor, and the acclaimed hotel restaurant Les 3 Domes, on the top floor, there is a panoramic view of the Rhone and Lyon’s rooftops. Though the restaurant was closed during our visit, we enjoyed a wonderful breakfast buffet including Lyon’s specialty, a brioche bread made with pink pralines. These are caramelized almonds coated in pink sugar that have been used in pastries, cookies, and brioche bread here for hundreds of years.
This was one of the best breakfast buffets we’ve enjoyed complete with made-to-order omelets with local cheese, fruits, meats, and a vast variety of delicious pastries. (Perhaps a chocolate croissant?)
Les 3 Domes chef, Jeremy Ravier, is known for his commitment to serve gourmet cuisine using local and seasonal ingredients. He is a member of the select Toques Blanches Lyonnaises (Lyon White Hats) that dates back to 1936 with an aim to preserve and maintain the culinary traditions and history of Lyon and to promote Lyonnais gastronomy.
That is quite an honor considering there are 5300 restaurants in Lyon including 17 with Michelin stars and 25 certified bouchons. These restaurants are committed to serving Lyonnaise cuisine that traditionally was made with simple ingredients in plentiful portions like Quennelles, a souffle made with pike, milk, eggs flour and butter and covered in seafood sauce.
(The Sofitel restaurant offers a three-course dinner menu for €75. (about $87 US dollars) Children are welcome and there is a children’s menu for €18 (about $21.) A really good value for a delicious meal.
We were glad to spend an evening in, enjoying an excellent burger and club sandwich at the Le Light Bar after an exhausting day and tour of Lyon’s famous Old Town Traboules (with GetYourGuide) These are the Renaissance-era streets and hidden passageways and courtyards of Lyon where silk workers once toiled, making Lyon a major European center . The passages were designed to save time by providing shortcuts through the city’s buildings; During World War II, Resistance fighters used these passageways and hidden courtyards to leave messages and hide weapons.
Back in the 21st century at the Sofitel, we were thrilled with our large room (and huge bathroom) and that the hotel obviously welcomed families judging by all the youngsters we saw at breakfast. Travelers will also be glad of the fitness center and the spa, especially the opportunity for a massage.
We were sorry to leave.