We learned on a Regent Seven Seas shore excursion in Valencia Spain that the iconic dish was invented by farmers in the field
By Andy Yemma
Put down your forks! Make sure it’s mid-day – never eat Paella for dinner.
If you are eating traditional Paella in Spain, you scoop it right out of the big pan with a spoon. And the pan rests in the middle of the table, your portion in front of you.
Welcome to Paella 101. It’s the last day of our two-week transatlantic crossing on Regent Seven Sea’s new ship Grandeur and we’ve signed on for this Paella-making class. It is organized on a small orchard about 30 miles south of Valencia in the tiny town of Cullera.
Our teacher is Rafa Codona. The company is called Mi Paella Al Huerto Corbera. As he doesn’t speak English, we have a translator. There are 15 in our group. This is one of the few shore excursions that aren’t included ($99 each) but well worth it, the group agrees.
“So much fun,” said Terri DiRado, sailing with her husband Andy from Houston. He adds that he signed up for every cooking class on board (also at an extra charge) and enjoyed them all immensely. “You learn a lot even if you know how to cook,” agreed Hank Payne, traveling with his wife from suburban Chicago.
Payne adds that this excursion is definitely worth the upcharge, especially as the group is small.
It’s a hands-on class. We start by searing chicken and rabbit in in olive oil in three big round paella pans. Paella with fish or sausage is only for the tourists, we learn. Nor is it served for dinner, only at lunch and typically, Sunday lunch with the family.
Traditionally, the men in the family cook (like American men command the BBQ grill). The women in the family do the prep work. “It’s a tradition to get together with family on Sundays in Spain,” said Codona.
Once the meat is sufficiently browned after about 12 minutes. Then we stir in butter beans, lima beans, and pureed tomato. Next we add salt, saffron and paprika, as well as water to cover the meat and veggies. (At home we might substitute bell peppers for the beans, and include andouille or chorizo sausage, maybe even some chunks of white fish and fresh mussels).
The rice is the last ingredient and must be cooked no longer than 17 minutes, on a boil for seven minutes, then simmered (uncovered) for another 10.
Paella, we Learn, started as a dish farmers made in the field for lunch in the 19th Century with ingredients they had on hand. It was first made in Valencia but has become a popular dish all over Spain.
While we’re waiting the 17 minutes, we drink wine and munch on bread, olives, hummus, cheese, salami, and carrots. No one is to touch the pans or stir while the rice cooks.
Finally, the pans are pronounced finished and they are perfect. The meat is juicy, the rice and vegetables perfectly flavored.
Our teacher declares we have done a good job. We are served tangerines right from his orchard for dessert along with a local cake called coca dellanda and a sweet wine called Mistela.
“The best paella is the one your family makes,” our teacher said smiling.
PS: for those following closely, we spotted another iconic steamroller near Valencia. In a highway roundabout. On a pedestal, like some kind of revered historical icon. Too quick to snap a photo, pix, or even conjure up a caption. And no sign of Fester Bestertester, Joe Fonebone, or the nearsighted strongman. A phone booth, fuggetabouidt.