(Originally posted in August 2015}
By Andy Yemma
TOYKO (August 2015) – August, the hot month. Seventy years ago this month the world’s worst war ended, 66 years ago I was born and 60 years ago my father, a U.S. Air Force officer, moved his growing family to Japan for four years. So when we had the opportunity to visit Tokyo this month, I naturally thought of my childhood and wondered if we could try to find some of my old haunts.
In 1955, my family sailed from San Francisco to Tokyo on a WWII military transport. The voyage took two weeks and everybody except me got seasick, I remembered. At six, I was the oldest of four kids, the youngest, my only sister, a baby. For the first year in Japan we lived at a small USAF facility outside of Tokyo – my father never told us what he did there although we always suspected it had something to do with electronic eavesdropping on the Soviets. The U.S. military had bases all over Japan during years after the occupation and by the time we came the presence of so many military families in the Tokyo area had resulted in the construction of several family housing areas. In our second year, we moved to a place named “Grant Heights” in northwest Tokyo. Hundreds of American service member families lived there – thousands of kids like me. I remember it much like a small town in America with its own elementary, middle and high school, a commissary, base exchange, movie theater, swimming pool, gymnasium and four little league baseball diamonds where I played ball every summer.
Grant Heights had lots of open fields where I would play with my brothers and school friends. We often played “Army” and when my sister was old enough, at 3, to join us she would be designated the cook. We made snowmen on rare occasion. We had a black-and-white TV, one channel, and watched three shows in English once a week – Superman, I Love Lucy and Highway Patrol with Broderick Crawford.
Our exposure to the Japanese and their culture was limited although on occasion we would visit places like the nearby Toshimaen Amusement Park, where we kids loved the old barge that plunged into a pool of water not unlike Disneyland’s Splash Mountain today. We visited the Ginza in downtown Tokyo and ate sukiyaki at local restaurants now and then.
Once we rode a train to a hot springs resort in the mountains northwest of Tokyo; another time we spent a day at the beach. But mostly we lived and I went to school at Grant Heights. I traded “Mighty Mouse” comic books with other kids in front of the BX; watched “Buck Rogers” serials every Saturday before a movie (“Davy Crockett” being my favorite), and rode my new Schwinn bicycle everywhere. Grant Heights was a safe and secure environment, and — because President Truman had integrated the military more than a decade before the Civil Rights movement – I attended school with kids of all races and nationalities. When, at the age of nine, we returned to the States and spent the summer with my grandparents in a small Texas town, I remember being stunned by the “whites only” signs.
Grant Heights and Japan soon became a faded memory, revived only through old home movies and photos. When I was in my late 30s and early 40s I traveled to Tokyo on business several times but it was a much different world around 1990 and Grant Heights was long gone, the land returned to Japan and the post-war military housing replaced in the mid-1970s by a high-rise residential area named Hikariagoka Park (the name means “Light Heights” in Japanese). On one trip I had a weekend layover in Tokyo and tried to explore the area on my own – I found four empty baseball diamonds (it was early spring so play had not yet begun) that gave me a sense of déjà Vu). I returned hearten at what I had discovered, but longing for more information.
On this trip, my wife (Eileen Ogintz) arranged a guide through Go Tokyo to take us back to Grant Heights and Hikariagoka Park. I was impressed how our guide, Nobuko Iwanami, who once lived in the area, visited the Hikariagoka Library, where they have a small area with materials and photos related to Grant Heights. She had a map showing the layout of Grant Heights, complete with the “Runway” – from a WWII Japanese airfield – that was the main street on which we lived. I quickly recognized the landmarks – the chapel at the north end of the Runway, the officers club at the south end, and the rows and rows of wooden duplexes that made up the military housing. I pointed to a spot on the map – “that’s where we lived, right about there.”
When we arrived at the end of the subway line – Hikariagoka Station – it was literally steps away from where the Yemma family lived in Grant Heights. Nobuko laughed out loud when I reckoned that our house was probably now a Baskin & Robbins. The Runway – it’s now a wide pedestrian promenade, flanked by a large shopping mall and retail shops and restaurants serving the residential high-rise buildings. And while it is a Japanese neighborhood with families on bikes, playing in the park, shopping at the market, American culture is everywhere—from the Disney toys in the shops to ice cream, coffee, pizza and fried chicken.
At the north end of the Runway is a pretty, shaded park with a children’s water playground – and on the hot, humid August day that we visited kids were running and splashing everywhere, just as I remember we did as kids here back in the 1950s. Then, off to the right of the Runway – the baseball fields – still there 60 years later, Japanese boys in uniform and taking batting practice. Nostalgia!
Two subway stops from Hikariagoka we got off at Toshimaen Station and visited the old park – a small but modern theme park with roller-coasters, water-slides and a quaint old carousel (Japan’s oldest) that once was at Coney Island in New York. As we returned to Tokyo, Eileen asked me what I thought about the visit. Did I find any ghosts?
Some things never change, I said, the kids riding bikes, splashing around in the hot weather, the baseball fields. You can go home again.
Thank you for taking me back to 1965 when I was 5 years old, and lived at Grant Heights. You have described it perfectly. I have so many good childhood memories from Japan.
Born
I was born in 57 at Tokyo US Army Hospital. My sister at Tachikawa two years later. We arrived In the states in 61 at Eglin.So awesome to be connected with a very unique group.
I was one of 5 kids and we arrived in Japan September 1959 when I turned 6 years old. We first were housed in a home off base across from a Japanese communal compound and down street from a huge cemetary full of Cherry Blossom trees.
Then we were housed in a home in a small circular compound fenced, near a huge Japanese park and to the side of a Japanese school where I met my first Jaoanese school aged children. We could see Mt Fuji quite clearly from that housing compound. I believe it was 1961 when we arrived at Tachikawa and Ive been trying to find info on that housing which was townhouse style, with several buildings facing an open grounds area and lots of open fields between each grouping of townhouse buildings. I went to elementary school there and remember Metal Quansit hut buildings as part of the school. I have many fond memories of our life in Japan and would love it if someone could point me in the direction to find pictures of the Grant Heights housing as the only pictures Ive seen on internet are aerial views of entire area and it looks like what I remember.
We too were in Japan at the same time. I was 4 or 5 but I remember going to school for the first time in Japan. We lived I’m Momote Village but I can’t remember the address. In my mind I can still see the house though.
I’m a japanese.
Momote village was located around the RIKEN
(2-1,Hirosawa,Wako,
Saitama).
I lived in Japan from 1955 through 1960. I went to seventh and eighth grades at Yoyogi school in Washington Heights, then four years at Narimasu. I recall biology and football coaching by Bud French and social studies with “Uncle Charlie.” Great time! I never knew the Main Street of Grant Heights had been a runway. I flew as a student pilot in AirForce light planes left over from WWll—L-5’s. The field was Chofu, not far from Grant Heights. Our class (of 1960) donated a small Stone Japanese lantern to Narimasu. Wonder what happened to it when the school was torn down.
I lived in Grant Heights shortly, 1953-1954. I was 7. I remember the post theater. The serials before the movies on Saturday was “Sir Galahad”.
Even though my father was an NCO we were able to afford a maid. At sunset we could see the top of Mt. Fiji. One of my sisters was born while we were there. I’m surprised how much I could remember back then.
Hey Andy. My family lived in Japan from 1956-1960. We lived in “private rental” for the first six months, then moved to Grant Heights. As I recall, the locals called the area Mitsumi-Dai. My memories are very similar to yours, but my older brothers remember it in much more vivid detail than I (I was only 4 when we moved there). We flew there from SF, via Honolulu, Wake Island and Guam, but flew home on a 707.
I have nothing the but the fondest memories of Grant Heights, and excursions with our maid to downtown Tokyo, sukiyaki joints, and even her parent’s house several hours north.
Did your family have any other foreign posts? Our family got posted to Paris, then to Athens. Lots of moving around for sure, but a unique childhood for sure.
Thanks for sharing. Japan was our only foreign posting as a family, although my dad was overseas a lot during WWII and Korean War.
Thank you so much for the very vivid description of Grant Height! I spent my 8, 9, 10 th grades there at Narimasu HS. Have such fond memories of living there and going to the Teen Club. We left in July 1959. Dad was stationed at Fuchu Air Station and we had no idea what he was doing, again , Thanks
My family was in Grant Heights from 1956 – 1959. I was 8 when we arrived and 11 when we left. My father was an Army Captain. At the time we arrived, Grant Heights was basically Army . A year or so later, the transition to the Air Force started. I attended 3rd thru the 5th grade at Narimasu Elementary. We had a live-in house keeper. Her name was Yoshiko Watanabe. She was a young housekeeper. We loved her as family. As kids she was a mother surrogate, as my mother worked full time. If still living, she would be about 83 years old, now. Her family was from Hokkaido. Her father’s name was Humio (sp). Haven’t seen her since 1959. Many fond memories of her and all of Japan. Still think about it often. Japanese culture class was one of my most favorite. Spent half our lives at the swimming pool in the summer; weekends at the post theater and in front of the PX selling comic books). playing baseball and marbles at school (my brother and I were the ones to beat!). My 5th grade teacher was Mr. Moriwaki from Hawaii. Had some GREAT, and fresh (not canned), pineapple when Hawaii became the 50th State in 1959. I know that Japan is not the same, but I would love to visit. Did many field trips with 5th, Grade class. Cherry Blossom festival, Mt Fuji, Lake Hakone……Even though it was a long, long time ago, my memories are still vivid of our time in Grant Heights, Japan.
Andy says your experience sounds very similar to his. Same years too, but he was a year younger. Great memories!
My family was only in Japan for about a year. I think 1957-8. I went to Narimasu Ele for the second half of my 4th grade school. Miss Kiyabu was my teacher.
Hi Larry,
Dad was stationed there in -57-60. I remember Grant Heights then moving out to the country for a year, then we moved to Momote Village. I went to Narimasu Elementary School for the 2nd-3rd grade.
Do you know if there is a site that covers Narimasu Elementary or Momote Village?
We were stationed in Japan for 4 years – 1968-1972 and lived in Grant Heights. I’m writing my memories of this place to share with my grown daughters. The youngest was born at Tachikawa AFB hospital in 1969. Thanks for sharing your memories!
I was at Grant Heights from 1966 to 1971. It was our second tour in Japan. Our first was at Tachikawa 1960 to 1964
We were at Grant Heights from 1966-1970. I went to Narimasu Elemntary and am looking to make connections. My teacher in the 5th grade was Miss LaRosa.
I had a wonderful time over there. My dad was stationed at Fuchu but we lived on Grant Heights.
Are you Alex Johnson’s brother?
I was an Air Policeman from 1967 to late 1969 at Grant Heights. I enjoyed every minute.
My father was a staff sergeant and a military police.we were stationed in grant heights from 1967-1971
David, I lived there from fall 1966 to spring 1968. Such fond memories riding the Japanese bus with 10 yen coin to get to the elementary school as we lived on the outer edge of the base — I think near where the Hikarigaoka Library is. I went to Hikarigaoka in January 2023, but didn’t think to go to the library. I will make it my mission go to the library when I go in the fall. Mom shopped for groceries at Narimasu station. She was Japanese and felt more comfortable in a Japanese environment. She sewed the high school cheerleader’s uniform for extra money.
Dad was stationed at Fuchu Air Station, arriving I think in ‘58 or ‘59 from Clark Air Base in the Philippines and we lived at Grant Heights. I was 9 then turned 10. Remember mom ordering chocolate sundaes (BX I guess) and a Japanese man would deliver them on a bicycle. Chestnuts sold out by the ball fields. Honey bucket pits lol. Not being allowed off the housing area when they were protests (communists, not sure though) .Playing baseball with a hard rubber ball (Japanese ball I think). Building unpowered go carts and driving down an old bunker, I think near the Abx and theater area maybe. Always a view of Mt Fuji it seemed. Didn’t know there was a runway there. 4th and 5 th grade on base.
My dad was stationed at Fuchu 58-59 too. We lived at Grant Heights. I went to 2-4 grade at Narimasu Elementary School. Played Little League too. Maybe we knew each other in the way back. lol. Andy Yemma (takingthekids.com)
My dad was stationed at Fuchu 59 – 63. I was born at Tachikawa AFB. We lived off base in a house my parents built near the Suntory plant and race tracks.
My Dad, Mom and I lived there in 1950-1951. He was a Japanese American (NIsei) NCO who worked as an interpreter at GHQ. My mother was a Japanese national. I dont know if I was born on or off-base because there were some issues early on regarding marriages between GIs and foreign nationals. Would like to know if there are still birth certificates available from Grant Heights so I can find out either way. I was only 2 when my Mom and I left Japan and sailed back to the states under the Golden Gate bridge, something I guess many of the older folks here did. My Dad stayed in the service a couple more years.
For years, I thought we had lived in “Grand Heights” and never knew about Grant Heights until I found an old paper my dad prepared to request our admission to the US. Grant Heights sounds like it was a great place for families and to live while posted in Japan. My next trip to Japan to see relatives, I am going to try to get to Hikariagoka and check it out.
I lived in Grant Heights and Mutsumi Dai multiple times (back and forth between Japan and Hawaii) until I graduated from Yamato High School (Narimasu High closed at the end of the 1971 school year). Both Narimasu and Yamato have active alumni associations and groups on FaceBook if you are interested. Neither group really cares whether you went to either high school but is more about the shared experience of having lived in Japan. You will find lots of postings that will bring back memories.
Narimasu/Grant Heights and Camp Drake Facebook group at https://www.facebook.com/groups/37715283769
Thanks so much for this wonderful article. My family lived there for two years, approximately 1965-67, while my dad was a doctor in the army. I have my certificate from the elementary school on the base. We really do appreciate your taking the time to write this recollection. I hope to go back to Japan soon, 60 plus years later. Best regards, David
I’m Japanese.
I was working in Hikarigaoka where Grant Heights was located.
There was an officer club on the south side.
There is no trace of Grant Heights in Hikarigaoka.
It seems that the ground around the chapel is slightly raised, but it doesn’t seem to have changed.
About 50 years ago I lived in an apartment complex on the north side of Momote Village from 1966 to
1973.
Momote village was located around the RIKEN(2-1,Hirosawa,Wako,Saitama).
I am a Japanese.
I lived in an apartment complex on the north side of Momote Village from 1966 to
1973.
Even now,only the foundation part of millitary housing remains on the the RIKEN.
But we can’t get in.
The golf course became a park.
The terrainseems
to be as it is.
What great memories. I, and my brother, loved in Grant Heights in 1963-1967. I attended 1st – 4th grades at Narimasu Elementary. My father was stationed at Yokoto AFB. We can lived across the street from the post office and gas station. I remember Toshimaen a few times. I miss those days.